Review: Wynwood Italian Spot Piegari Makes Decadent Pasta, Risotto

Argentine restaurants, as well as Italian spots founded in Argentina, are having a moment in Miami. Therefore, it was no surprise that Piegari, a hot spot hailing from the land of Leo Messi, would eventually find its way to Wynwood.

At first glance, Piegari might seem like just another swanky Italian spot in Miami but it's quickly stood out with its dedication to classic Italian cooking and spot-on execution. With roots hailing back to 1994 in Buenos Aires and outposts in Chile, Mexico, and Bolivia, Piegari has long been known for its freshly made pasta dishes and celebrity clientele.

In Wynwood, it opened right in the thick of Miami's sweltering summer this year — a notoriously slow season for restaurants. Still, on a recent Wednesday night, the place was buzzing with large family gatherings, groups of friends catching up over drinks, and a few power-dining business folks. Servers in crisp white suits and black bow ties flitted around the room, delivering generous plates of ravioli and risotto with flair.

Don't Judge a Spot by Its Menu Cover but Rather by Its Octopus

On the surface, the menu reads like many others in town — burrata, grilled octopus, branzino. One might be forgiven for incorrectly assuming that the dishes would follow suit, offering an all-too-familiar and rather lackluster experience. However, what sets Piegari apart is its meticulous execution and top-notch ingredients, many of which are imported from Italy.

A friend once told me that a restaurant can be judged by its octopus, a theory I've put to the test many times in Miami, where grilled iterations appear on seemingly every menu. Here, the dish arrived with two plump tentacles, charred on the outside and exquisitely tender within. The zesty white wine sauce studded with capers and black olives seeped into the succulent meat, infusing it with a bright, briny flavor, while wedges of roasted potato added a comforting touch. It was a simple dish that packed a flavorful punch. Therefore, it was a very promising start to my meal.

But let's not lose sight of why I came to Piegari: the famed pasta.

My Favorite Pasta Was the Most Unique — But Order the Pasta Tasting

The menu offers a variety of fresh pasta dishes, all made in a glass-encased "pasta laboratory" to the open kitchen, where you can watch the chefs at work.

Unable to choose between the squid-ink fettuccine, the intriguingly named "Guitar String" noodles with tomato sauce, or the spinach-stuffed ravioli, I opted for the pasta tasting, which combines all three. Each pasta offered a distinct flavor profile. The fettuccine served with a butter lemon sauce comes crowned with a single plump shrimp and dotted with salmon caviar that bursts with flavor. Generously stuffed with vibrant green spinach and ricotta, the ravioli were coated in a pink sauce, bringing back memories of Sunday lunches at my aunt's house in Buenos Aires.

Bright yellow from egg yolks, the square-shaped "Guitar String" spaghetti was perfectly chewy and tossed with a sweet tomato sauce made from fresh tomatoes and topped with black olives. The pasta got its name from the tool it's made with, the chitarra, a wooden tool that looks like a guitar with strings that slice the dough into its signature square strands. If I had to choose a favorite of the night, it would be the squid-ink fettuccine — something about its briny richness kept me reaching for more.

Piegari's offerings extend beyond pasta, with tender cuts of meat, seafood flown in from Italy, and ultra-creamy risottos rounding out the menu. The lamb ragù risotto, topped with shreds of slow-braised lamb simmered in a rich Chianti reduction, was our pick. However, it was our server's recommendation of the porcini mushroom and truffle risotto that truly left us with a reason to return. There's also a Neapolitan milanese made with filet mignon, topped with cheese, and served with a side of "Guitar String" pasta — this time, simply dressed with butter.

Dessert, which features Italian classics like tiramisu and profiteroles, surprisingly has nods to the restaurant's Argentine origins. We couldn't resist the dulce de leche crepes, which were thin and golden and filled with silky dulce de leche and served with vanilla ice cream (and whipped cream for good measure).

A Quiet Restaurant to Bring Your Family, Parents, and Friends

All in all, every dish was impeccably prepared, with flavors that were deceptively simple yet deeply satisfying. The service was warm and attentive, striking a balance between fine dining and casual friendliness. Inside the elegant dining room, diners are greeted by a grand open kitchen and an architectural centerpiece that reportedly cost upwards of $700,000 to construct. The space is sophisticated and inviting, with blonde wood-paneled walls, shades of blue, touches of greenery, and gold accents. The bar adds to the ambiance with its polished white marble and dark blue wainscoting.

Piegari is not the place for Miami's party crowd but rather a spot to bring your parents, celebrate a special occasion, or enjoy a quiet dinner with friends. It's a welcome addition to Wynwood and one that proves that even in a city saturated with trends, there's still room for something special.

Piegari. 137 NW 26th St., Miami; 786-960-4747; instagram.com/piegariusa.