This Fort Lauderdale Texas Barbecue Joint Might Be One of the Best in the U.S.

Just off of Sistrunk Boulevard in the Fort Lauderdale neighborhood of Dorsey Riverbend lies a barbecue spot that might be one of the best — if not the best — in Florida. And before you ask, "Where is this guy coming from?" and "Who the hell does he think he is making such a bold claim?" I'm New Times contributor Jesse Scott, and my wife is from Texas (which means I know a thing or two about great barbecue).

Over the past few years, I've barbecue-hopped across the U.S., everywhere from Austin and North Carolina to Charleston and Nashville. During my travels, I have waited in those hours-long lines and have even made reservations weeks in advance for some of the very best, including Rodney Scott's BBQ in Charleston and Terry Black's in Austin. Although I've left satisfied, nothing compares to the feeling that washed over me when I left off-the-cuff spot B&D Trap in Fort Lauderdale on a random Friday night. Who would've thought this hole-in-the-wall joint would become one of my favorites not only in Florida but in the entire U.S.?
Tucked off Sistrunk Boulevard — the heart and soul of the city that's rooted in Black history — consider B&D Trap off the beaten path. It's impossible to miss, with an exterior draped in yellow and red graffiti art made complete with a red fedora-wearing pig as its artsy mascot.

The seating here is no fuss, just simple picnic tables under a covered turf patio, but the impressive barbecue pit is just the opposite. The star of the show here is the property's massive pit area where Texas-style meats are smoked. (Texas-style barbecue boils down to dry rubs, low temperatures, and the usage of oak wood for smoking, and here, they excel in all of these qualities.) Rounding out the exterior of the spot is a classic window for ordering takeout.

Inside, you're greeted with another mural featuring the red fedora-wearing pink pig next to diagrams of beef and pork cuts. There's a window beside the diagrams where you can peek into the kitchen and see the chef and pit master himself, Orelle Young, and his team in action. Alongside operating partner Kevin Rodriguez, the restaurant is the culmination of a nearly two-decades-long culinary journey for Young that has taken him to Dubai, London, and New York City, among other locales.
Inside the restaurant, there's an ordering counter with a soda fountain, a small beer fridge, and a menu bearing meats, wings, sandwiches, combos, sides, and desserts. While simplistic, it's easy to get lost in all the possibilities — a 24-hour marinated half chicken ($15), 12-14-hour smoked brisket ($15), a pulled pork sandwich topped with cilantro-lime coleslaw ($12), and we can go on and on. Combo number six allows you to dabble in a little of it all: two quarter-pound meat selections (go for the brisket and turkey) with a side of your choice and a soft drink for $18.

The brisket at B&D Trap is tear-worthy good — literally melty, tender, seasoned oak-infused bliss. In true Texas-style fashion, it needs zero sauce, but B&D Trap does have four killer sauces (Alabama, Buffalo, SoFlo, and a signature sauce) to dabble in, if absolutely needed. If you need a sauce recommendation, the Alabama sauce will not disappoint, no matter what you're dipping in it. Compared to the brisket, the turkey can taste a hair drier, so you won't regret the douse here.

Oh, I'd be remiss if we didn't talk about the velvety mac & cheese. (Can we be real for a second and just say that the majority of mac & cheese offered at most restaurants is lackluster, dry, or an overcomplicated disaster?) Well, at B&D Trap, the mac is thick — like, thick-thick-thick, probably five times thicker than Velveeta — and has a friendly little kick at the end.

Between hearty portions of brisket and mac & cheese, you'll need to save room for its banana bread pudding ($6.50). Presented in a deconstructed fashion, it is a beautiful pile of bread, white chocolate, vanilla wafers, and crisped banana slices, all topped with a super-buttery toffee drizzle and whipped cream. My God, more tears of joy.

By now, you've been given the roadmap to barbecue paradise right in our backyard — order the brisket, mac & cheese, and banana bread pudding at B&D Trap. You're welcome in advance for instant happiness.

B&D Trap. 1551 NW Sixth St., Fort Lauderdale; 561-382-7944; bdtrap.com. Sunday through Thursday 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. and Friday and Saturday 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.