Not strictly Peruvian, you say? Stipulated. We appreciate a good classic Peruvian place as much as the next paper does. But there's plenty of room in our ink-stained heart for a renegade of culinary culture like native Italian chef Matteo Gritti, who calls his kitchen "experimental" and "borderless" with "traditional Andean elements." That translates into dishes like ceviche with green gazpacho "de tigre" and pickles; rainbow trout with Andean succotash, creamy cauliflower and cilantro gremolata; and charred prime rib-eye steak with crushed Parmesan potato and dry chimichurri Peruvian asparagus. It's way cool. (Say it fast, you'll get it.)