Miami Flavors Meet World-Class Dining at Palma in Little Havana

At Palma, a newly opened restaurant in Little Havana, everything on the menu is subject to change. Everything, that is, except for the bread and butter. To founder and chef Juan Camilo Liscano, that course — a brioche infused with the rich flavors of maduros and paired with butter studded with caramelized coconut bits — is unique and personal, a blend of his Miami roots and international cooking experience.

Born in Miami to Colombian parents, Liscano's upbringing was marked by constant movement, courtesy of his father's job in the airline industry. The exposure to diverse cultures ignited a passion for travel early on, shaping Liscano's culinary perspective. His career began humbly as a line cook in kitchens across Los Angeles and Miami before embarking on a global exploration, from Quintonil in Mexico City to Maison by Sota Atsumi in Paris, with stops at Momofuku Ko in New York and Ikoyi in London along the way.

Bringing his experiences full circle, Liscano felt a pull to return to Miami, where he could infuse the cuisine from his upbringing with the flavors and modern techniques garnered from around the world. Thus, Palma was born, offering a creative dining experience with a rotating eight-course menu priced at $85 per person that showcases a variety of culinary elements.
"Palma is about balancing creativity and quality, offering an experience that's both playful and refined. My goal is also to offer something accessible yet exceptional, where everyone, from industry insiders to curious food enthusiasts, can enjoy top-notch cuisine without the need for exorbitant markups," shares Liscano.

Despite the minimalist presentation of each dish, the preparation is intricate, resembling the meticulosity of fine dining. For instance, consider the steamed local flounder — the hand-speared fish is dry-aged and gently cooked, served with a burnt chili-infused squid ink sauce with papa criolla cooked in butter, all atop a scallion bearnaise and African blue basil.

Another example is the signature bouquet of mixed leaves and herbs. Explaining the process, Liscano shares, "We visit French Farms every Tuesday to harvest the restaurant's vegetables. So every week, we pick out a bouquet of leaves and herbs for this one dish — we wrap and tie them with a carrot stem and serve it with some kind of dip." Currently, the dip is albacore, which is preserved and prepared in house.

For dessert, one might find the porcini ice cream crafted with caramelized white chocolate and crystallized kale. Made from traditionally savory ingredients, it evokes nostalgia, with the porcini mushroom ice cream resembling chocolate fudge and the crunchy caramelized chocolate conjuring memories of crunch bars enjoyed on Halloween as children.
Each month, diners can expect a curated selection, including a mixed leaf bouquet and dip pairing, a vegetable, a crudo, cooked seafood, meat, bread and butter, a palate cleanser, and a sweeter dessert, with occasional surprises based on seasonal ingredients and Liscano's culinary inspiration.

The wine list at Palma is as dynamic as the menu, with a global selection that changes monthly. Liscano also ensures there's always something exciting available by the glass, offering guests the opportunity to explore new flavors and pairings. A current favorite is the Domaine de la Pinte sauvignon and chardonnay blend from France's Jura region, known for its beautiful oxidative notes, fruit-forward profile, and refreshing character.

The ambiance of Palma mirrors its culinary ethos — minimalist yet inviting, with concrete walls and floors softened by dim lighting and candlelight. The compact 1,000-square-foot space sports an open kitchen and a concrete counterbar adorned with river stones for a touch of natural charm.
Since its opening, Palma has been a hub for culinary collaboration, with Liscano actively engaging with local chefs and restaurants. From hosting pop-ups at his venue to participating in events elsewhere, such as the recent "Tins & Bubbles" collaboration with Cafe du Bey, Liscano remains committed to fostering community connections within the industry.

Looking to the future, the young chef plans to expand Palma's offerings by transforming it into a wine bar on Sunday nights, drawing inspiration from Parisian "cave à vin" concepts, and allowing diners to taste some of his signature dishes à la carte.

"Palma's vision extends beyond our kitchen doors; it's about democratizing memorable dining experiences. Whether through our approachable tasting menu, collaborations with up-and-coming chefs, or by offering our tasting menu dishes à la carte, we're dedicated to expanding access. It's not just about what's on the plate; it's about fostering a community where everyone can savor the pleasure of great food," he concludes.

Palma. 240 NW Eighth Ave., Miami; eatpalma.com. Wednesday through Thursday 6:30 to 10 p.m. and Friday through Saturday 6:30 to 11 p.m.